Shiny silver and red streamers glint in the breeze, bird bangers boom through the vineyards and unwieldy yellow harvesters lumber along the lines and concession roads. 

Grapes hang in the late summer sun, their skins now dusky purple or mellow gold, nearing the moment of ripeness that will signal their time for harvesting.

Row upon row of vines create peaceful vistas to admire at this time of year, but behind the signs of harvest visible to all, unseen stories and challenges unfold.

Weather is one wild card, but there are multiple variables to juggle and everyone involved is in for weeks of inexorable work and exhaustion before it all is done.

With this new series — Heartbeat of the Harvest — The Lake Report goes behind the scenes to capture some of the stories of the people who make it all happen.

*****

It isn’t quite 7:30 in the morning yet, but the early hour doesn’t deter an eager crowd from gathering in the bright September sunshine to celebrate the first day of the harvest at Chateau des Charmes — and to make their own contribution by hand picking grapes destined for sparkling wine. 

A buzz of anticipation and excitement pervades the scene, as a new tradition for Chateau des Charmes is inaugurated.

Both winemaker Amelie Boury and sales and marketing head Anne Givens have experienced harvest time in France first-hand.

There is a tradition there of inviting people from the town and the farming community to come to the vineyard at the start of the harvest.

“It’s a big thing to get invited. Everyone wants to go. They have coffee and French pastries, and then they pick grapes, and then they have mimosas. It’s a celebration,” says Givens.

“I did two harvests in Champagne and two in Beaujolais, and everyone does this. It’s a time of joyful sharing,” says Boury.

“So we said to each other, let’s do it here,” she says.

“I’m really happy to share this moment. This is exciting. Harvest for us is not just picking the grapes, putting them in a tank and making wine,” Boury says.

That’s one part of it.

“But what’s important is that this is the fruit of six to seven months of hard labour. Our workers have made this possible,” says Boury, inviting a round of heartfelt applause for them, which they join in on.

Givens notes a lot of the winery’s employees have never been part of the harvest in this way.

“So we invited everyone. Next year we’ll do the same thing and it will probably get bigger, because it’s special. We’re in wine country and so many people love wine but they’ve never picked a grape,” she adds.

That was about to change for those assembled. Once the coffee and pastries had been enjoyed, it was down to work.

Orange-handled pruners were arrayed on a nearby barrel table and Boury instructed the group, saying, “Go ahead and grab a pair of clippers. Don’t cut yourself, all right? I have a stack of Band-aids, but we don’t want to use them.”

“We’re going to head to those four rows of Chardonnay vines and I will give you a demo, and then you each own your own basket.”

Crouching in front of a vine, Boury expertly wields her clippers, telling the group, “get down like this, to protect your back, don’t bend over to reach the grapes. Put your hand under a cluster and nip right at the base.”

“If you see a bunch that may have had some damage, do not put that one in the basket. And take your time.”

That’s all they need to know and everyone spreads out through the vineyards, their faces smiling in the morning sunbeams.

“It’s so great to see everyone having fun. Look at those little kids over there. We have all ages here today,” says Givens, a broad grin on her own face. “We love that.”

The group finishes the four rows of Chardonnay in good time, so they move on to the Pinot Noir grapes, which will also be used to make sparkling wine.

Their reward, once finished, is a well-earned mimosa, as well as a happy memory of a new experience and the satisfaction of contributing directly to harvest 2024.

——————————- 

Chateau des Charmes by the numbers
Acres to harvest: 115
Grape varieties: 11 (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Aligote, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Yield: 450 tonnes
Production: 306,000 litres
Vineyard labour: 14 workers
Handpicked: 104 tonnes
Machine harvested: 346 tonnes 

——————————- 

• In Part 2: Harvest is all about preparation, hard work and decision-making. Next week, we’ll meet Stratus winemaker Dean Stoyka and see how he prepares the winery for harvest and how he evaluates the grapes to determine the ideal time to pick.