Ross’s Ramblings: Thinking about Silks Restaurant in downtown Virgil
Whether it’s for grabbing a drink, or the reasonably priced grilled cheese at $5.50 a pop, Silks Country Kitchen is a dining staple of Virgil. FILE/EVAN SAUNDERS

Talk about a unique and local topic for this week’s edition of Ross’s Ramblings. Was it their flashy new outdoor sign that drew my attention to Silks Country Kitchen a few days ago? Or did some other subliminal prompt turn on the chandelier in my head?

And just what is the etymology of the name Silks?

Since moving here in 1992, I have passed through the intersection of Four Mile Creek Road and Niagara Stone Road hundreds of times.

Objectively, downtown Virgil is not really memorable. I have been to Silks many times, quite often for breakfast after a spirited Wallbangers hockey game very early Sunday mornings. Opposing teams would dine together, and rarely was there a harsh word. Commissioner Bill Dickson kept an eye on things, and any emotions were quickly cooled down.

Also, the Hot Tub hockey players often enjoyed a cold post-game beverage at Silks after their evening games. For me, an Oast House Barnraiser.

Silks was sort of like a favourite winter sweater or a comfortable sofa for TV watching. It felt good, and there were no surprises. Like a warm toque.

In an attempt to find out where the restaurant name originated, I made a few telephone calls. Then, leaping into the current century, I Googled it. Still curious, I actually spoke to Jennifer Phelan, co-owner with her brother Joel Dempsey. Then I called the source of much local information, Megan Vanderlee. I think it was Megan who told me she had heard that an original owner of Silks had been into horses and horse racing.

Thoroughbreds or standardbreds? Trotters or pacers? The venerable track at Fort Erie, or Garden City Raceway? Yes, from 1964 until 1976, the Ontario Jockey Club did its best out where the outlet mall is now, but “it just didn’t work out.”

I know a wee bit about horses, having branded standardbred foals in the southlands of New Zealand back in 1974. (A little knowledge in the hands of a fool, and all that.) Invercargill, what a lovely town.

Stay with me here. Thoroughbred jockeys wear “silks.” What an aha moment that prompted. And sulky drivers wear silks, too.

I shifted back to Google, and that’s where the research became interesting. There are actually two hospitality venues named Silks. The other one is called Silks Balcony and Loge, located prominently and presumptuously on the third level of the clubhouse at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Ky. With a good view of the finish line.

Yes, that Churchill Downs, where the Kentucky Derby is contested annually. The first leg of the Triple Crown, followed by the Preakness and the Belmont Stakes. Only 13 horses have ever won the Triple Crown.

I am wandering way off track. Let’s get back to Silks Country Kitchen in Virgil. Certainly an anchor and important tenant, along with Avondale and Domino’s. By the way, Avondale doubles as the landlord at this busy strip mall. Who knew? Who really cares?

Let me ramble to a conclusion with a few words about Silks. Not a restaurant review, just a few informal words. In this case, encomiums, meant to say, “Well done.”

Jennifer and Joel run a tight ship. I understand the eatery opened in 1995, and they took over the reins 17 years ago. They have the Midas touch of attracting highly talented, loyal and classy employees. All service staff are what I call “fast walkers,” and they take care of a lot of guests, often under rush-hour pressure.

Host and busser Lincoln is a real winner, along with another Jennifer and Alex.

Now, a drum roll as I ramble to a conclusion this week. At Silks in little old Virgil, I have stumbled upon what must be the best sandwich value in all of Canada. A very generous cheddar grilled cheese on fresh sourdough bread. Shockingly priced at $5.50. It was so good, I ordered a second one to go.

That grilled cheese sandwich tasted just as good the next day. For lunch.

Which made me remember the truism, “There is no plural for grilled cheese.”

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