Yoshi Takaoka, manager and head sommelier at Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Masaki Sushi, has become one of 46 people in the world — and the only Canadian — to earn a master sake sommelier designation.
He received the designation earlier this year during a course in Portland, Ore. Takaoka said such courses are typically held in Europe and Asia, and the North American offering gave him the opportunity to pursue the credential.
He said reaching the master level required years of work and study beyond his previous certifications.
“There’s no like specific textbook before you take the exam,” he said. “Because … we will be the master, we need to know everything regarding sake.”
Candidates had to demonstrate extensive knowledge of sake and guest service, including how to introduce and present different varieties, he said.
According to Masaki Sushi’s website, Takaoka has curated a collection of more than 80 sakes, one of the most extensive selections in Canada.
Before qualifying for the master designation, he earned several advanced certifications: Certified Sake Sommelier, Certified Sake Professional, International Kikisake-shi and the Wine and Spirit Education Trust Level 3 Award in sake.
Originally from Japan, Takaoka first came to Canada in “2005 or 2006” as a high school exchange student in Vancouver to learn English. He later taught Japanese culture to students, including a class in Stratford that included a young Justin Bieber.
He later enrolled in Niagara College’s restaurant management program and worked for “five or six years” in Niagara Falls, including at the Marriott Hotel.
“Most of my skills was working in Niagara Falls,” said Takaoka, who added he had “some skill” in Japan as well. He said his management abilities grew as he combined European and North American techniques with what he had learned in Japan.
In 2017, he joined the group that opened Masaki Sushi. The restaurant serves a range of Japanese dishes and offers multiple sakes, including a Niagara-branded sake available exclusively at Masaki Sushi.
Takaoka said sake, made from fermented rice, water, koji mold and yeast, carries a strong spiritual component, with a tradition spanning more than 2,000 years rooted in Shinto.
“We always use sake as holy drink,” he said. “It’s like the mother drink for Japanese people.”
While sake is widely consumed in Japan and sommeliers are less in demand there, he said the role carries more significance in Canada, where guests may be less familiar with the drink.
Takaoka said understanding guests is central to being a good sommelier.
“Most important is through the conversation,” he said. “So, what type of family background, what type of cuisine do you like, also what type of wine do you like.”
Although he is the only master sake sommelier at the restaurant, Takaoka said Masaki Sushi relies on a team of sommeliers and staff.
“We need a team,” he said. “It’s really important for the entire restaurant.”
Takaoka will also be leading a sake tasting event called Sake Journey Niagara. It will be on April 11 at the Royal Cambridge Banquet Hall in the Prince of Wales Hotel. It will take place from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.
